Thursday, November 29, 2007

Final Primer Coat

The putty was sanded smooth and the final primer coat applied. White was used on skin areas.

Monday, November 26, 2007

Correcting Defects

Parts for the Fate kit are inspected and a red auto glazing compound is applied.

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Monday, November 19, 2007

Festival Beauty

Sorry I haven't updated in a few days. I've had a commission I've been struggling with awhile. Due to poor castings and poor parts fit this one has been in the works for months. When I finally got her to the point where the finish line was in sight, I sprinted over the last few days. This is the final outcome.

Tuesday, November 13, 2007


All the seam work and parts assembly needed prior to paint have been puttied and sanded. So it's time for the first primer coat. These prep steps seem dull (they are), but they are vital to a successful end result. Generally speaking, I usually spend more time in the prep phase than the actual painting.

This is the Fate Stay Night character. Mahoro is mine and not a commission. So she is delayed.

Since this work is kind of dull, I'll show you another video I did that illustrates the use of LED lighting effects in anime kits. Enjoy

Saturday, November 10, 2007

WIP 2 and WIP 3

The next two WIPs I'll do together. One is a character from Fate Stay Night and the other is Mahoro in combat suit. The washing, trimming and fittting have been done and the parts are pinned together. Next I will putty joints and remove seamlines.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

The Finished Figure

I carefully assembled the figure using epoxy and superglue. Since she is a commission and needs to be shipped, I have not glued her to the seat. That is why she is not sitting squarely on the seat.


Here are the subassemblies ready to be put together. I have made a simple white base of sufficient size to mount the figure.

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Monday, November 5, 2007

Head and Radio Complete

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These are the steps in doing the face. The eyes and mouth get a gloss coat after they are finished.

Sunday, November 4, 2007


I wanted an antique look for the radio. I did some careful masking and sprayed MrColor silver and gold. I then used a dark enamel wash thinned with lighterfluid to age and bring out some detail.


After the skin has been painted, we proceed to mask off the skin areas in preparation to do the clothing. Using a painting reference photo, I selected a pale blue and a pale yellow for the base colors. The cushion will get the same colors.

After the blue has been painted I masked for the yellow.

A darker transparent blue and a darker transparent yellow were used to shade the parts. A clear semigloss laquer sealed the work. I also painted the radio. I started with a rust red base color and shaded it darkly with transparent brown. I sealed the radio with gloss laquer. I am going for a 40's~50's antique look.

Saturday, November 3, 2007


When painting figures, I paint from deepest layer to outermost layer. By this I mean skin first, followed by underwear, shirt, jacket, etc. Paint as if you were dressing the figure, or dressing yourself.
I select three flesh tones.
A base color.
A shade color.(darker)
A highlight color.(lighter)
The parts that will be flesh are coated all over in the base color. The shade is painted in folds, depressions, and at junctions with other parts (like clothes). Highlights are applied to raised areas, dumps, muscles, cheeks, etc. I then go back to my base color and mist a thin coat of base, to blend the surface. I will sometimes place areas of pinkish tones to indicate blush.
Once I am satisfied with the skin tones, I seal the work with flat laquer.
Here are the skin parts painted. I have used a transparent black on the chest to simulate a see-thru effect.

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Next Step

The first coat of gray primer primarily serves to expose the defects in the surface of the kit. Things like seam lines, air bubbles, pinholes (also small airbubbles), and casting defects need to be exposed and corrected at this time.

For this step I use red auto glazing putty. I keep a jar of soupy putty thinned with laquer thinner for this purpose. I apply the thinned putty to the defects and rub it into the pinholes wherever needed.

Once the red putty has dried, I use 320 wet/dry sandpaper to sand the putty smooth. The parts are now ready for the final primer coat.

The final primer coat serves as a base for the color coats. It provides a uniform surface for the color coats to grip. Without primer, most paints will not adhere to resin. After 24 hours the figure is ready to paint. As you can see, I prefer white primer for the parts that are girl and gray for non-girl parts. The white will allow a brighter more natural looking paint job, IMO.